Turn shoe



Sept. 23 1924,

J. CAVANAGH TURN SHOE Filed Aug 8; 1919 Patented ept. 23, i924,

JAMES CAVANAGH, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOB TO UNITED SlI-IOE MA- CHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSQN, NE

JERSEY.

A conronA'rron or NEW TURN SHOE.

Application filed August 8, 1919.

To all 1071-0777. it may concern: 1

Be it known that I. JAMns CAVA-NAGH, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suflolk and State 5 of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Turn Shoes;

and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, andexact description of the invention, such as 'willenable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same. This invention relates to turn shoes the soles of which are provided with a reinforce for the sewing-rib ,to strengthen it.

The present prevailing style in shoemaking, particularly in the manufacture of turn shoes, requires alsole shaped with an extremely pointed toe, known to the trade as a peaked-toe sole. Shoes in which. such soles are incorporated are extremely difficult forthe operative at the insea'ming machine to handle because of the quick turn required, after the shoe hasbeen inseamed on'one side, in order to bring theother sideof the shoe in proper relation. to the stitch forming instrumentalities. Inseaming machine operatives who are not highly skilled will start to swing the shoe too soon, with the result that the position of the sewing-rib adjacent the I tip of the toe will be turned from its proper position at right angles to the path of move ment of the'awl and needle. s'ewing=rib is pierced by the needle at an acute instead of a right angle, this angle growing smaller and smaller, as the swinging continues, until the tip of the toe reaches the stitch forming point. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the effect of this is to cause a material weakness of the sewing-rib such that the inseam 'is pulled through during the strain of turning the shoe. This crippling of the shoe may be remedied, according to the presentinvention, by backing the sewing-ribwith a. strengthening material designed to hold the stitches in place under the strain of the turning operation. A material, the structure .ofwhich is efficient to this end, is the heavy canvas or duck which is ordinarily used in reinforcing insoles, since the threads which extend trans- .versely of the sewing-rib when the reinforce is in place, act as anchors to .hold the inseam stitches from pulling through the weakened sewing-rib.

The object of the present invention is to As a result the ing through Serial No. 316,226.

produce a turn shoe the sole of which is provided with an improved type of reinforce for the sewing-rib the construction and mode of application of which will be explained in thefollowing specification. Accordingly the invention comprises a turn shoe with a reinforced sole having the novel characteristics hereinafter described and defined more particularly in the appended claims.

The preferred embodiment of the invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which Figure 1 shows a plan view of a peaked-toe turn sole provided with the novel reinforce for the sewing-rib; Fig. 2 is a cross-section on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a modification; and Fig. 4 is a section on an enlarged scale through a portion of the finished shoe indicated by the line IVIV in Fig. 3.

In the embodiment of the invention illustrated in the drawing the turn sole 3 is provided with the usual. marginal shoulder 4, oblique channel 5, and channel .fiap 6 cut therefrom. This sole fittingmaybe obtained by use of a turn channeling machine such as is disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States to FredericE. Bertrand No. 1,030,? 041, dated June 1912, the sole thereafter being passed through a turn sole molding machine, preferably of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of the United'States to Albert E. Johnson, .L oV1,3O7,82O, dated June 24, 1919, which will curl the channel outwardly over the between substance preparatory to applying the reinforce. The reinforce comprises a textile fabric tape 7, pref erably of heavy duckjor canvas which is laid in the angle inside the sewing'rib and folded centrally to form two leaves which lie both against the channel 5 and the inner surface of the channel flap 6. The tape is of such width that the edges of its leaves, after folding, lie approximately at the top of the flap and the inner edge of the channel. The tape 7 is provided with cement on its attaching face which effects a close adhesion to the leather of the sole, and may be formed-in by any suitable machine for applying reinforce to soles. V j

After the sole and upper have been sewed together wrong side out in the usual way, the stitches of the sole-attaching seam passthe between substance or through the sewingrib 6 substantiallyat its base and through the reinforce 7 and after the surplus material at the margins of the upper and of the channel flap has been trimmed as usual, the shoe is turned right side out, that is to say to bring the grain surface of the sole outward and its flesh surface on the inside of the shoe where it is engaged by the foot of the wearer. During this operation of turning the shoe the sole attaching seam is subjected to a severe strain, as already suggested. but the stitches are prevented from pulling through the sewingrib by the reinforce 7. Furthermore, the channel flap willbe turned back toward the channel andpressed down as usual before or when the shoe is relasted and leveled so that the reinforce will be substantially concealed within the channel.

While the only portion of a good grade peaked-toe sole that need be reinforced is the portion of the sewing-rib extending back a short distance from the tip at the toe end of the forepart, it will be apparent, from the succeeding discussion of the advantages of the invention, that where the stock of the body-blank is inferior resulting in a weak sewing rib, an application of the reinforcing tape to the entire length of the sewing-rib will be advantageous since it increases the strength of the weak rib to such an extent as to permit the inseaming operation to proceed without danger of crippling the sole. The length of tape required for good grade peaked-toe work is shown in Fig. 3.

It has heretofore been proposed to reinforce both turn soles and insoles, when inferior material is used for the body-blank, bythe application of a sheet of reinforcing fabric extending over the entire forepart of the sole. Such a turn sole is disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States to Al bert E. Johnson No. 1200,11 1, dated October 3, 1916. Several disadvantages which accrue from this method of reinforcing are overcome by the present invention. Firstly.

after forming-in the sheet of fabric into the channel at one side of the sole, the forming-in at the other sidetends to. pull l0OS8'.tl'le margin of the fabric on the first side. This is due to the fact that the fabric is bent over the forming-in tool at such an acute angle that there is no chance for it p to slip from its free margin, resulting in a drag across the sole. This objection is entirely overcomeby the use of a single layer of reinforce in the form of a tape which may, during its application to the sole, be freely drawn from either margin without injury to the sole. Secondly, in inseaming a shoe provided, with a sole reinforced by a sheet of fabric,ythe fabric will draw and tend to buckle the sole when stitching down the first side. This distortion of the sole cannot take place when a reinforcing tape alone is employed. Thirdly, when a sheet reinforced turn sole is wet to turn the shoe, the leather andthe fabric absorb different amounts of moisture with the result that on drying, the sole buckles. It is therefore highly advantageous to keep the fabric surface at a minimum by the useof tape Fourthly, the sole is in a mull temper when the shoe is inseamed and the use of a tape reinforce applied to the channel alone, will permit the sole to stretch and conform to the last where a sheet reinforce will stiffen the sole to such an extent that this conforming to the last cannot take place effectively.

It has also been proposed heretofore, in

the making of welt shoes, to feed an uncemented tape through the channel guideof a welt sewing machine during the inseaming operation. Such a method is disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States to Myron L. -Keith No. 534,159, dated February 12, 1895. The difficulty encountered innsing the Keith method is that in feeding in a flimsy narrow tape of fabric practically simultaneously with the formation of the stitches, the guide doesv not place the reinforce well in the channel or always accurately in the channel so that the needle will pierce its center. This is due to the required formation of the guide to feed the tape in advance of its placement in the channel, and to inaccuracies of channeling. As a result the welter does not always sew through the tape which results in a weakening'of portions of the inseam and discomfort to the wearer of the shoe. This difliculty is 'Wholly overcome by use of the present sole in which the tape is placed or formed tightly'and securely in the channel as a stock-fitting operationbefore the sole is assembled with the upper. The sole then has its tape reinforce accurately placed and a strong sewing-rib is necessarily produced. There is an additional advantage, in employing atape reins force of this type in a turn, or single sole, shoe in that it furnishes the necessary strength during the turning operation while it does not lessen the flexibility of the sole. which is one of the great advantages of a turn shoe, and'moreover it is substantially concealed .in the finished shoe as shown in Fig. 4, whether or not the shoe is provided with a sock lining, and therefore does not impair its appearance.

The nature and scope of the invention hav ing been indicated and the proposed embodr prepared with a continuous sewing-rib a" receive the seam securing the upper and sole together and being provided with a continuous reinforce cemented Within the inner angle between the sewing-rib and the flesh face of the sole to receive the stitches of the seam and prevent them from pulling through the sevving-rib when the shoe is turnecL the foot-engaging part of the flesh surface of the sole being free from the reinforce to preserve its flexibility and prevent impairment of the appearance of the inside of the shoe. i

2. A turn shoe comprising in combination, an upper and a single sole which has been secured thereto with the sole and upper Wrong side out and then turned right side out, the sole being provided with a sewing:- rib and a channel on the face which is next the foot when the finished shoe is worn, a seam passing through the sewingrih and the upper to secure the upper and sole together, and a textile reinforcing strip cemented to the inside of the sewing-rib and in th Cl1fl11- nel at the toe to hold the stitches of the seam and prevent them from pulling through when the shoe is turned, the flesh, or inner; surface of the sole being free from said strip in order to preserve its flexibility.

J AMES CAVANAGH. 

